Alaska 2021

Monday, September 27, 2021

Sunday, September 12, 2021

While waiting in Seattle, Dad got a little sleep on the floor while I got a bagel with cream cheese. The flight went well. I slept again.

In Chicago we had another layover. There was an earlier flight to Des Moines which we wanted to get on to get us home 2 hours earlier, but because we checked bags we couldn't switch to an earlier flight. Instead we decided to sit at the Burger Federation and have a Diet Coke.

The flight to Des Moines went smoothly. When we got to Des Moines we had to wait a bit because of the airport being short handed and not having a gate crew.

It was so great to see the boys. Teddy made a cute sign saying "Welcome Home Mom" and decorated it beautifully.

The trip was absolutely incredible and having the opportunity to spend that time with Dad is something I will always cherish!

Sunday, September 12, 2021

Saturday, September 11, 2021

Rise and shine! We woke up early this morning for our 4:15 departure to Seward for our halibut fish. Taunie and Jeff drove separately because she needed to get to the airport earlier than the rest of us and would be rushing to leave the dock. Ryan and Ryan each took a row of the Excursion to stretch out and sleep while I slept in the front seat. Poor Dad had no one to talk to so he listened to a book on tape.

We arrived about 7 and it was cold! I wore leggings, jeans and waterproof camp pants on bottom and long underwear, long sleeves, sweatshirt and rain coat on top. We checked in and paid before heading down the dock to find our boat and Captain, John. Today was his last charter for the season and he was happy about that. He planned to surf and then spend time working in San Diego helping with a boat during longer fishes (2-14 days).

It took much longer than expected to get to the fishing spot. We learned this was the end of the season and halibut fishing was a little slower than usual because their bellies are full, they’ve moved and the population was dwindling. It took us two hours of rough seas to get to the first spot. Thank goodness for Dramamine.

We spent about an hour in a spot called “Dick Ripper”. Big fish have been caught in that spot, but unfortunately, none were biting for us. We had four rods in the holders and two people jigging. Jeff did catch a rockfish, but no halibut. After an hour we moved to another spot. This was the chicken spot as they referred to it as. It’s the spot they take people when they are close to limiting our or have gotten all their big ones. There typically aren’t huge halibut here,but at least we could catch one.

Ryan Bowers got the first halibut on the line. He was smaller, but a halibut none the less. After a bit the second halibut was caught using a jig again. If that’s what they wanted, we’d give them jigs. We put in two jig lines. The other lines started to go a bit. It was so hard to watch the pole get a nibble, then no bite—they’ve gotten smart over the season. We enjoyed pb and j sandwiches and chips for lunch.

Etiquette was that everyone would catch at least one. I had already caught a little one when the reel I was watching got a bite. I set it, hooked him, and handed it to Taunie who hadn’t caught one yet. He was a bit of a fighter and she battled and brought him in. He was by far the biggest weighing probably 65-70 pounds. She was ecstatic! People did a great job sharing poles and giving each other tours. John suggested not handing off poles with a jig so that they line stayed tight, but Ryan was able to hand off a jig for Dad to catch one.

We continued in this spot for awhile before we had to set back on our long journey to the harbor. We had caught 11 halibut and our limit was 12 so we stayed just a little longer out than we should have knowing we would need to book it back for Taunie to be able to make her flight at 8:30. We didn’t catch our last fish but handed off our fishing spot to John’s friend who was doing a charter and needing more halibut.

We knew we would be pushing the 2 hour boat ride back to the harbor, but holy buckets did we fly! John warned us it would be rough and it was. We were bouncing all over the place. We’d get airborne and slam back into our seats. Dad sat in the front seat which was a little softer in hopes it would help his back, but it was ROUGH! Thankfully no one got sick!

On the way back we slammed down so hard we broke the bench Ryan, Taunie and I were sitting on. I spotted a mountain I thought looked like a laying down gnome and the door flew open and the toilet paper rolled out on poor Taunie who was using the bathroom. Just by the hair on our chinney chin chin we made it to dock and Taunie, Ryan and Jeff booked it to the airport.

Ryan, Dad and I stayed back for the fish, we hung them up, got pictures and then John cleaned them on the dock. We brought a Rubbermaid and Dad bought trash bags at the local hardware store to put the fish in. We were going to pay to have the fish shipped and processed, but they were closed for the season. Many stores were closed for the season.

We then made our way back 2 hours to Anchorage. On the drive we saw beluga whales and because the tide was low and coming back in, people were heading out to surf, paddle board and kayak.

When we got back to Dan and Nicole’s we did a mad rush to finish packing, showered and started cleaning some of the fish. Dad gave Ryan money to be able to check a third bag of fish so we could get some home when it was frozen. We ate some Mexican and then headed to the airport.

We had to check in at the kiosk, get bag tags from a kiosk, check bags with an attendant and then go to oversized baggage to drop the bow cases. The TSA were very diligent in checking everyone’s bags. I wondered if it was because it was the 20th anniversary of 9/11, but Dad said Anchorage airport was always this diligent which I appreciate.

We made it through security relatively quickly and got to our gate with about 20 minutes to hang out. We switched seats with another passenger so we could sit together and I think we were both asleep by the time the plane took off.

We slept hard on the plane and didn’t wake up until we landed in Seattle. We are currently waiting our 3 hour layover in Seattle before our flight to Chicago. I am sad to leave and don’t want to return to the stressors of the real world, but I sure do miss the boys!

Friday, September 10, 2021

We started this morning a hair earlier than we have been getting up. With the postponement of our halibut we decided to still drive into Seward and take a 6 hour glacier and wildlife tour. The tour left at 11:30, but we needed to be there an hour early so we left Dan’s about 8:00.

The drive to Seward is beautiful. It goes through the mountains and around the bay. On our drive we saw beluga whales! We arrived in Seward about 10:30am and found our check in area.

It was packed with lots of people waiting in line for the various tours. After waiting about 10 minutes a woman came out and announced that the 6 hour tour had a 90% chance of not making it to the glacier because of a storm that came in last night. They were offering free cancellations and rescheduling. Neither of those options worked for us so we took the chance and went on the tour- worst case scenario was that we would only get a shorter tour of Resurrection Bay. Either way, we figured we’d see animals and we had no other plans, so why not.

The waters were relatively calm as we got out of the bay. They offered lunch and we ate as we exited the bay. We saw a couple sea otters on our way out. About 15 minutes in the captain got on the speaker system and announced there were killer whales ahead of us. Everyone went to a deck and started looking. There were probably 5 or 6 orcas that would show their fins. One baby even went breech and did a little splash. They were so majestic and amazing to see in their natural habitat.

As we exited and went into more open waters the swells got HUGE— our guess was about 12 foot swells. Luckily, Dad brought some Dramamine and I had two before we got on the boat. Many people around us were not so lucky. The crew was sooo good about helping people who were sick. They had barf bags, offered ginger candy and ginger ale. Each puke they’d replace the bag for the individual and throw the puke bag away.

Our next stop was the glaciers of Kenai Fjord National Park. We went to Holgate glacier and Surprise glacier. It was absolutely beautiful. You could see the gorgeous blue tints throughout the glacier and hear as a crack was created. It was sad to see how far back they have receded. They had a picture from 1909 that showed how the glaciers once touched, but now they were probably over a mile away. There was a seal out in front of the glacier. We also saw some mountain goats on the side of the mountain. The boat slowly spun to give everyone good views.

Scott, a boat hand, used a net to scoop up a chunk of the glacier. It was crystal clear. He said that scientists can take the chunk and study the bubbles in the ice to determine gasses in the bubbles that can give insight to years and years ago. There were also two types of jellyfish in the water. One had tentacles and one did not. Inside, we enjoyed some hot chocolate- thanks, Ryan!

After the fjords we we headed to some islands. I fell asleep on the ride because het big waves and rocking was so calming. Our captain saw some stellar sea lions on a rock and went over close to them so we could see them. They are on the endangered species list and there were probably 10 on this big rock.

Along the way we saw seagulls and puffins. It was said it was odd to see puffins because most had left to migrate a week or so ago, but we were able to see a couple of them. By this point it was getting a little more windy, rainy and cold so most people were hanging out inside. Then the captain made an announcement— tour boats were gathering because there was a humpback whale. Everyone gathered quietly outside to wait for the blow. The other boats were giving updates on how long it had been. Humpback whales usually stay underwater between 5-10 minutes but can stay underwater for up to 45. Because they are mammals, they have lungs and need to come up for air. The whale would blow a few times and then arch their back. Usually a tail would flip or a jump would occur, but this was a lazy whale we were watching—it did neither.

It was just so cool to see one in person. Within a couple minutes we had two porpoises swimming with us and jumping with the boat. It was so cool! I got a couple good pics and video of them. They are like dolphins but have more of a black color to them.

Back inside they offered us brownies and we headed back into the harbor. There were many fisherman because the red salmon were swimming. We checked out a few gift shops before hitting the road.

On the way back we stopped in a town called Gridwood for dinner at a restaurant called the Double Musky Inn. It had such a neat atmosphere. We waited in the bar for a table and ordered an appetizer of hot crawfish dip. Many of the dishes had a Cajun feel and there were many Mardi Gras masks throughout the restaurant. Once we got our table we were able to order. While the restaurant was rather expensive, it was also very good. I ordered the crab stuffed halibut with a glass of Sauvignon blanc while dad had the seafood pasta with a cider. The food was delicious. It was served with a baked potato, salad and jalapeño bread roll. Others ordered steaks and they were HUGE!!

Back and Dan and Nicole’s we headed to bed because we knew we would have an early morning tomorrow.

Thursday, September 9, 2021

I slept until about 9:00 before enjoying a nice, hot shower. It felt glorious to just stand in the warm rushing water.

The day was filled with washing and organizing all the camping gear and getting the caribou ready to take to the locker. I had no idea what all was entailed in the day. We went through totes, we washed things off, aired things out and moved things around.

Taunie, Dad and I took a few loads back and forth to the storage unit after we delivered the truck back to the airport.

Taunie ordered some pizza for lunch and we spent the rest of the afternoon outside. The weather was just beautiful.

We had gone back and forth trying to figure out what the plan would be for the evening. Some people needed to take the caribou to the locker and some needed to take the tailor and truck back to Jeff Lutz about 3 hours away. The original plan was that Dad, Taunie and I would do some of the drive to see the scenery, but after much switching around it ended with Ryan, Ryan and I heading to the locker and south to Saldota. We saw wind surfers in the bay as we drove.

When we got to the locker we found out they needed to have quartered one of the caribou instead of leaving it whole. So Ryan and Ryan started quartering it in the parking lot while I talked with Thom and Mom on the phone. There were peacocks around the meat locker and there were baby peacocks too. Dad and Taunie were at the fur shop and he asked if I would like to be picked up instead of heading south. I decided that was a good idea because it was getting later and darker and I wouldn’t be able to see any scenery. So Taunie and Dad came and picked me up.

We decided to head toward to 49th State Brewing Company in Anchorage. It was packed! Dad got a cider and I got a flight of: cider, Arctic Painkiller, Passionfruit Pucker, Mango Pucker and Permafrost. My favorite was the Arctic Painkiller but they were all delicious. I got souvenirs and we headed back to the Alch’s.

Dan made a delicious chicken noodle soup for everyone. I got to meet Nicole, Nici and their daughters. Taunie and I chatted with Nicole and Nici for a few hours while the guys watched the football game. It was a very enjoyable evening.

When Nicole and Nici headed to bed Taunie and I stayed up a bit and chatted before heading to bed.

Our halibut fish got postponed for tomorrow because it was going to be very rough seas so we are doing a Kenai Fjord tour instead and the halibut on Saturday before our flights leave.

Wednesday, September 8, 2021

We woke up at about 7 this morning to start loading the vehicle. It took us about 3 hours to load all the vehicles and tear down camp. We hit the road about 10:30 for our long drive back. Dad started the drive and I took over after an hour or so. We knew it would be a lot of back and forth driving because we were both tired and were going to drive through the night.

Atigun Pass was a little rainy so I let dad drive for that portion. Going back and forth on the slick, wet, greasy, muddy road in a truck I am unfamiliar with is not what I wanted to be doing. I ended up sleeping for an hour before Coldfoot which was our first stop for a late lunch. I got the same sandwich but got chicken noodle soup to try and warm up a bit. The soup was delicious.

We were then on our way to the Arctic Ocean and Yukon River. I slept for a couple hours before Yukon River and woke up just as we were pulling in. We used the bathroom and walked down to the river for a picture- then we were off again.

Our next stop was in Fairbanks for gas and some McDonalds at 10:30pm. I took over driving about 11:45pm and finished the drive to a Anchorage when we arrived at 4:30am.

We unloaded some stuff and then were off to bed. The Alch’s home is incredibly unique. There are 5 or 6 different levels to the home and it is very outdoorsy and filled with animals and wood carvings.

Thursday, September 9, 2021

Tuesday, September 7, 2021

It is the last full day at camp. I actually slept warmly last night! Every inch of my body was covered in clothing except for my eyeballs. I used the gaitor over my face and started the night with two pairs of socks and leggings on. I shed one pair of leggings and socks and slept pretty soundly. We woke up this morning about 8:00 in hopes of getting a little earlier start. The wind is whipping this morning; I thought it was raining, but just windy. I pulled my hair back today and boy does it look greasy. I got a whiff of myself as I changed my bra this morning and I think a shower in two days will do me well.

After a yummy breakfast we loaded the truck to head out for the day. Dead battery. They started it earlier in the morning so I’m not sure what is causing it to die, but it wasn’t helping us start our day. Luckily, we got new neighbors who were just pulling in and they had jumper cables. So it only slowed us down a tad bit. Within 20 minutes we were on our way.

We got a few miles away from camp and Dad realized he wasn’t wearing his muck boots and so he and Jeff drove back while Taunie and I walked out to the pipeline and the service road. We took some pictures and then started walking the road. Two ravens flew really close to us and then turned quickly to sit on top of the pipeline. They watched us while we watched them. One liked jumping on the pipeline to make a tink noise.

Our first stop was to fish. We went to the service road around pipeline marker 442–around mile marker 374ish. Taunie and Jeff went right and Dad and I went left. We walked up and down the river but had absolutely no luck. When we got back to the truck we met Jeff and Taunie and they had tremendous luck. They caught about 20 fish and at times had fish on each of their poles.

Our next goal was to find some ptarmigan. I am not a hunter, I will never call myself a hunter, but I practiced with the bow and I wanted to see if I could do it. We hadn’t seen any ptarmigan yesterday so our mission was to spot them. I saw what I thought was ptarmigan out by the service road, about 200 yards away, but it was geese. We kept driving and I saw a little head move. Sure enough, it was ptarmigan.

We got ourselves ready with our range finders, release and bows. The weather was absolutely beautiful. There was little wind and the sun was shining. Ptarmigan aren’t the smartest so we could get relatively close. This was a flock of about 20. Everyone wanted me to take the first shot because I was the rookie and I think they really wanted to see me get one. I shot my 5 arrows and missed every time. They didn’t get spooked so it was Taunie’s turn. She had gotten frustrated when she was shooting last time so we were all hoping she’d get one. She missed her first shot but nailed her second one. Then it was Dad and Jeff’s turn. Dad and Jeff think alike because they were both going for the same ptarmigan when Dad shot. The birds then got spooked and flew to the other side of the service road.

On the other side of the road I had my opportunity and shot my first ptarmigan, we kept following them and in all I got 3, Taunie got 3 and Dad got 1. I felt sad for shooting it but was also excited to be able to eat it and that my practice shooting the bow worked.

We decided to drive down a bit further and Taunie spotted another ptarmigan so out we got. This flock was split into smaller groups but as we went joined into one larger flock. We followed this flock of about 75 for almost a mile throughout the field. I got two more ptarmigan and Jeff got 2.

We decided to head back to the little greyling honey hole that Jeff and Taunie found so I could catch a fish. On our way we spotted Ryan and Ryan carrying out a caribou. We went out to congratulate him and help him get it loaded in the truck.

The fishing spot they found was perfect. Jeff gave me a few tips for casting and reeling and I became successful. Dad and I both caught fish really quickly. I caught 4! We didn’t stay long because we wanted to get back to camp to help Ryan and Ryan and eat some ptarmigan!

When we got back we started organizing our stuff in hopes of a quick packing of camp tomorrow. Taunie started cleaning the ptarmigan. Dad and I joined her and I cleaned one ptarmigan but didn’t have a very good knife so I was put myself on feather removal. Ryan, Ryan and Jeff were all working diligently on the caribou so I used a pot of water to help remove feathers.

We invited all our neighbors down tonight for burgers and ptarmigan. Boy, was it a sight. There were 13 of us all hanging out, having good conversations and enjoying each other’s company. Dad said this never used to happen until Taunie came. He said it seemed weird for grown men to ask their neighbors to join them for dinner, but when a young girl comes and asks, you happily accept. We joked that this was probably the biggest party the North Slope had ever seen. We had people from Alaska, South Dakota, Kansas City and Iowa.

After a bit of Dad trying to pull Jeff away from the group to cook the ptarmigan he retreated to the kitchen to show Dad and I what to do. Them we were on ptarmigan duty. It’s really healthy for you....not. Take a crap ton of butter and melt it. Bread the ptarmigan and cook it in the butter. It was really good. I liked the thinner, well done pieces. I kept trying to find something to compare it to, but it really had its own taste. I would eat it again. Ryan cut the loins off the caribou and cooked that up also. That was like a sweet pot roast, it too was good. Seth and Sam stayed and hung out after the others left. The other two groups were going to do big hunts the next day and wanted rest. Ryan and I cooked and dished up burgers with chips while everyone sat around the camp fire and talked.

The sky was starting to look clear and I was not giving up on the opportunity to see the northern lights. I had brought up some Revelton Creamed Whisky for a special treat with the northern lights, but when we began questioning if we would see them I pulled it out.

Had I known all I needed to do was pull out the Revelton I would have done that a long time ago. The sky began to dance. It was absolutely breathtaking. People stopped all conversations and just watched it amazement. Dad played “It’s a Wonderful World” which is what he played two years ago when Taunie first saw the northern lights; it is also the song we danced to at my wedding. So under the northern lights we danced again.

The lights would shine and then would disappear, then reappear. There were 3 good shows before we decided to call it a night. I stayed up just a hair longer to see if they’d show a fourth time, but decided I should head to bed at about 2:30am.

What an incredible day. I had asked before we came “what is a typical day in Alaska like?” I was told ptarmigan hunting, fishing, a campfire and maybe some northern lights. Check. Check. Check. Check.